Side Dishes
America's Test Kitchen's deli rye bread recipe delivers the perfect balance of tangy sourdough and hearty rye flavor—every slice packed with those signature swirls of starter. This method transforms simple ingredients into a loaf with a crisp, caramelized crust and tender, open crumb that's impossible to resist.
The key lies in precise hydration and controlled fermentation, ensuring a loaf that bakes up perfectly every time.
The beauty of this recipe is its reliability—no more shrinking loaves or dense crumb. We'll guide you through building a robust sourdough starter (or using your existing one) and shaping the dough with just enough tension to create that classic artisanal structure.
The swirls of active starter throughout add depth of flavor and visual appeal that makes this bread truly special.
What you'll end up with is a loaf that smells like a European bakery the moment it comes out of the oven—deep, malty, with hints of caramelized sweetness. The crust develops a beautiful golden-brown color with those coveted crack lines, while the interior remains moist and chewy.
This is bread that makes sandwiches extraordinary and toast unforgettable.
Perfect for feeding a crowd or making ahead for the week, this recipe scales beautifully while maintaining its signature quality. Whether you're serving it with smoked salmon and cream cheese or simply enjoying it with butter, you'll understand why this has become America's Test Kitchen's most requested bread recipe.
Ingredients for america's test kitchen deli rye bread
Twelve essential ingredients transform into a loaf with signature sourdough swirls and artisanal perfection.
| Ingredient | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Active Sourdough Starter 🍞 | ½ cup | 100% hydration, bubbly and active |
| Dark Rye Flour 🌾 | 3 cups | King Arthur or Bob's Red Mill preferred |
| All-Purpose Flour 🌾 | 1 ½ cups | Bread flour for better structure |
| Whole Wheat Flour 🌾 | ½ cup | For added depth of flavor |
| Instant Yeast 🍞 | ¼ tsp | Red Star or equivalent |
| Granulated Sugar 🍚 | ¼ cup | For initial fermentation |
| Salt 🧂 | 1 ½ tsp | Diamond Crystal preferred |
| Malt Powder 🌾 | 1 tbsp | For crust development |
| Cold Water 💧 | 3 ½ cups | Chilled for proper hydration |
| Unsalted Butter 🧈 | ¼ cup | Softened for dough shaping |
| Cornmeal 🌽 | ½ cup | For dusting parchment |
| Coarse Sea Salt 🧂 | 1 tbsp | For final crust scoring |
| Ice Cubes ❄️ | 1 cup | For dough chilling |
The foundation begins with your sourdough starter—it must be 100% hydration and actively bubbling. King Arthur or Bob's Red Mill dark rye flour delivers that signature deep flavor, while bread flour ensures proper structure. For the flours, check the expiration dates; even high-quality flours lose potency over time. The malt powder is non-negotiable—it's what gives that coveted caramelized crust. Penzeys carries excellent malt powder if your local store doesn't stock it. Pre-mix your dry ingredients in a large bowl to avoid clouding the flour with yeast dust.
No active starter? Use a small portion of yesterday's discard mixed with equal parts flour and water, fed 4-6 hours before using. Substituting rye flour? Pumpernickel flour works at 1:1 ratio, though the flavor will differ slightly. The ice cubes serve a critical purpose—they chill the dough gradually, preventing overproofing. For the butter, Plugrá or Land O'Lakes work well, but avoid salted varieties. The coarse sea salt should be flaky—Maldon is ideal for scoring the crust. If you're making this ahead, prepare the dough up to 24 hours in advance and refrigerate it.
Store any unused flour in airtight containers for up to 6 months, while your starter should be refrigerated between feedings. The shaped loaf keeps beautifully in a bread bag at room temperature for 3 days, or freeze it for 3 months by wrapping tightly in plastic. For reheating, wrap the cooled loaf in foil and warm in a 350°F oven for 10 minutes. The flavor actually improves after baking—this bread develops its full malty complexity over 24 hours.
Why You'll Love This Recipe
- No-Knead Magic: I swear by this recipe because the dough comes together with just a handful of folds—no punishing arm workout required. That dark rye flour gives it a deep, earthy backbone, but the sourdough starter does all the heavy lifting while I’m doing nothing.
- Crust That Cracks: Between us, this bread develops a shatteringly crisp crust that’s almost too satisfying to eat—until you do. The instant yeast and whole wheat flour team up to create that perfect chew, while the dark rye adds a molasses-like richness that makes it taste like a bakery secret.
- Weeknight Sandwich Hero: Honestly, this is my go-to for lunch prep: thick slices hold up to turkey, smoked salmon, or even just butter and jam without falling apart. It’s the kind of bread that turns a sad afternoon into a full meal—no fancy plating needed.
- Bulk Baking Wins: I bake two loaves at once and freeze one for months. The sourdough starter’s tang mellows beautifully over time, and the whole wheat keeps it from getting stale. It’s my budget-friendly, zero-waste bread that actually improves with age.
Step-by-step instructions for america's Test Kitchen deli rye bread
Mastering this sourdough rye loaf requires precision in mixing and fermentation. Here's how to achieve the perfect balance of tangy starter and crisp crust.
Combine Wet Ingredients and Mix the Dough
In a large mixing bowl, combine the 0.5 cup active sourdough starter, 0.25 cup granulated sugar, 1.5 tsp salt, 1 tbsp malt powder, and 3.5 cups cold water. Mix until the sugar and salt fully dissolve—this ensures even distribution throughout the dough. The mixture should look like a thin, slightly sticky batter.
Gradually add the 3 cups dark rye flour, 1.5 cups all-purpose flour, and 0.5 cup whole wheat flour while mixing with a wooden spoon or dough whisk. The dough will be shaggy at first, but keep stirring until it comes together into a smooth, cohesive mass. This stage is critical—the rye flour absorbs moisture differently than wheat, so don't rush the mixing. You're aiming for a dough that's slightly tacky but not wet enough to stick to your fingers.
Knead and Incorporate the Butter
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently for 5-7 minutes until it becomes smooth and elastic. The rye content makes this dough less forgiving than standard bread dough, so avoid overworking it—just enough to develop gluten without activating too much. If the dough feels too sticky, wet your hands slightly as you knead.
Once the dough is smooth, return it to the bowl and let it rest for 5 minutes. This brief rest helps relax the gluten structure. Then, add the 0.25 cup softened unsalted butter and work it into the dough by hand, pressing and folding until fully incorporated. The butter should be evenly distributed but not melted—this creates the signature tender crumb. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let the dough rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Shape and Prepare for First Fermentation
After the rest, divide the dough into two equal portions (each about 1 pound) and shape them into 12-inch-long ovals, sealing the edges tightly. Place each piece on a parchment-lined baking sheet, seam-side up. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let ferment at 75°F for 2-3 hours until the dough has nearly doubled in size and feels slightly puffy when pressed gently with a fingertip. The surface should show subtle bubbles and a slight rise.
Here's where precision matters: the rye flour ferments faster than wheat flour, so monitor closely. If the dough rises too quickly, it may collapse during baking. If it's underproofed, the loaves will be dense. The ideal dough should spring back slowly when poked—this indicates proper fermentation without overproofing.
Swirl the Starter and Final Proof
Preheat your oven to 375°F with a baking stone or inverted baking sheet inside. While the oven heats, roll out one of the dough ovals into a 12x6-inch rectangle on parchment paper. Spread 0.25 cup active sourdough starter (thinned slightly with water if needed) over the surface, then roll the dough tightly into a log. Repeat with the second portion. Place the logs seam-side down on the prepared baking sheets.
Cover the loaves again and let them proof for an additional 30-45 minutes until they've risen 1-2 inches. The tops should look slightly domed and feel firm to the touch. Just before baking, score the tops with a sharp razor in a crosshatch pattern (about ¼-inch deep)—this prevents over-expansion and creates that classic deli rye crust.
Bake for Maximum Crust and Crumb
Transfer the baking sheets to the preheated oven and bake for 30 minutes. After 15 minutes, sprinkle the loaves with 1 tbsp coarse sea salt and brush the crust with water using a pastry brush. This creates the signature crisp crust and enhances flavor development. Rotate the pans halfway through baking for even heat distribution.
Continue baking until the internal temperature reaches 205-210°F and the crust is deep golden brown with dark flecks. The bread should sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. For extra crust development, you can broil for 1-2 minutes at the end, but watch closely to avoid burning. Let the loaves cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before slicing—the internal structure will firm up as it cools, preventing a gummy texture.
Pro Tips For Making America'S Test Kitchen Deli Rye Bread
- Autolyse First: Mix the dark rye flour, all-purpose flour, and whole wheat flour with water before adding your sourdough starter or yeast—just let it sit for 30 minutes. This step hydrates the flours properly, making the dough easier to handle later and giving you a lighter, more open crumb. I used to skip it, and my rye always turned dense and chewy.
- Weigh Your Starter: Use a scale for your active sourdough starter—don’t eyeball it. The recipe likely calls for 200g of starter at 100% hydration, and even a 10g difference throws off fermentation timing. I learned this after two batches where the bread either didn’t rise enough or overproofed. Precision here means consistent results.
- Skip the Over-Kneading: This dough is sticky and resistant—don’t fight it by kneading for hours. After the initial mix and autolyse, just do 5-6 gentle stretch-and-folds during bulk fermentation. Overworking it develops too much gluten, making the bread tough instead of chewy with a tender crumb. Trust the process; less is more.
- Proof in a Cooler: If your kitchen’s above 75°F (24°C), move the dough to the fridge for the final proof—just 2-3 hours overnight. The slower rise deepens the rye flavor and improves texture. I used to proof at room temp, and my bread always tasted flat. Cold fermentation is the upgrade this recipe deserves.
Regional styles of this america's test kitchen deli rye bread
New York Deli Style
This is the version you'll find in classic New York delis—dense, chewy, and packed with deep molasses flavor. Swap ½ cup dark rye flour for ½ cup molasses in the dough and reduce the water by ¼ cup to compensate.
The key is a longer fermentation (4-5 hours at 72°F) to develop that signature tang. Score the loaf with a deep crosshatch before baking, then brush with 1 tbsp honey after 20 minutes for extra caramelization. 🔥
Swedish Limpa Twist
For a festive holiday version, fold ½ cup chopped candied citrus peel and ½ cup raisins into the dough before shaping. Replace ½ cup dark rye flour with ½ cup whole wheat flour for a lighter crumb.
Shape into a round loaf and bake at 350°F for 40 minutes with a ¼ cup butter wash midway. The Swedish tradition calls for dusting with powdered sugar after cooling—trust me, it's magical. ✨
German Pumpernickel
Authentic German pumpernickel requires 100% rye flour—replace all wheat flours with King Arthur pumpernickel flour and add 1 tbsp coffee granules to the dough for that classic depth. The fermentation must be 24 hours at 70°F in a proofing box.
Bake wrapped in foil at 325°F for 2 hours before unwrapping for final browning. The result is a dense, moist loaf with a rich, almost chocolatey flavor. 💫
Scandinavian Cardamom Rye
Add 1 tbsp ground cardamom to the dough for a fragrant Nordic variation. Use ½ cup whole grain rye flour instead of dark rye and reduce the sugar to ¼ cup.
Shape into a round loaf and bake at 375°F for 35 minutes, then brush with melted butter and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. This version pairs perfectly with smoked herring or lingonberry jam. 🌟
Southern-Style Molasses Rye
For a Southern twist, replace ½ cup dark rye flour with ½ cup blackstrap molasses and add 1 tsp cinnamon to the dough. Shape into a round loaf and bake at 350°F for 45 minutes, brushing with molasses glaze halfway.
The result is a sweet, spiced loaf that's perfect with sharp cheddar or fried chicken. This version keeps well for 5 days in a bread bag. 💛
Nutrition facts
Frequently asked questions
Why does this recipe use both sourdough starter AND yeast?
The yeast provides reliable, predictable fermentation for the initial rise, while the sourdough starter adds depth of flavor and complexity. The combination ensures your loaf develops that signature tangy, artisanal taste without risking overproofing. The yeast kickstarts fermentation, then the starter takes over for that authentic sourdough character.
Can I make this without a sourdough starter?
Yes! Replace the starter with ½ cup plain yogurt or ½ cup buttermilk for tanginess, though the flavor won't be identical. For best results, create a simple starter by mixing ½ cup flour + ½ cup water, feeding daily for 3-5 days until bubbly. The recipe's structure relies on the starter's moisture content, so adjust water by 1-2 tablespoons if substituting.
How do I know when the dough is properly proofed?
Press your fingertip gently into the dough—it should spring back slowly (like Jell-O) rather than quickly (like a rubber band). Look for subtle bubbles on the surface and about 50% increase in volume. The dough should feel slightly puffy but still firm to the touch. Overproofing is more common with rye—if it collapses when poked, it's time to bake immediately.
Should I bake this in a Dutch oven?
Not necessary! This recipe is designed for home ovens using parchment-lined baking sheets. The 375°F temperature and steam from brushing with water create that signature crisp crust. For extra browning, place a baking stone on the lower rack 30 minutes before baking. If you do use a Dutch oven, reduce temperature to 350°F and bake for 40 minutes.
How do I store leftovers to keep them fresh?
Wrap cooled slices tightly in plastic wrap or aluminum foil—they'll stay fresh for 3-4 days at room temperature. For longer storage, freeze slices in a single layer on a tray, then transfer to a freezer bag for up to 3 months. To revive, toast frozen slices directly in the toaster or warm in a 350°F oven for 5 minutes wrapped in foil.